2009 Ilheus to Vitoria, Brazil

Had a really lovely quiet time in Ilheus. A lot of walking around town, although we were not very far from the downtown area, shops, supermarket and internet were all close by. We found an open air market but perhaps the economic downturn has affected this area of Brazil also as on the days we visited, the stalls were only half used, however it was still fun to shop. The waterfront area was very nice with a lot of greenery along the footpaths and nice white beaches. A number of people usually out for exercise and always 1 or 2 games of soccer on the go. Lots of schools and hospitals or clinics, but only a few high rise apartment buildings visible from the bay. Interesting times visiting cruising boats from 5 different European countries and a South African.

Early on May 7 we were finally ready to leave Ilheus. Picked a nice calm weather window using the GRIB files and had a lovely motor sail until the wind came round far enough for us to sail for a while. By midnight with full moon, we were motor sailing again and at 7 o’clock anchored in Cabralia Bay as the wind was picking up from the south and building waves against a contrary current. Spent the rest of that day and the next two, as it rained occasionally, holed up having hot lime toddies and lots of sleep to try and ward off a threatening flu. Did get to clean the log which was jammed by growth.

On May 11, we made an early start to take advantage of the offshore breeze and slight helping current, both of which became adverse during late morning, so again reverted to motor sailing till we reached the next anchorage behind a fringing reef at Cumuruxatiba at 16.30. Altho we had a comfortable night there there did not look to be any protection at all from the sea, the reef being underwater at all times, so we left again early next morning. Motor sailed all day, later on weaving between the reefs and islets of the Abrolhos archipelago till we could enter the dredged channel into Caravelas to anchor behind a protecting outer island. Followed in the wake of a tug pushing a barge for transporting wood to be used in pulp manufacture. The logging trucks were lined up all day and night feeding the barge, and as soon as it was full, the tug would be there to take it away, leaving another empty one in its place. A continual stream. As the GRIB files showed better sailing winds for the next day, we stayed another day here. Altho we had motored a lot of the way to this point, we were very glad to be passed the Belmont Point/Abrolhos islands region where currents are strong and winds variable – not an easy sailing passage as other yachts this year found out returning to Ilheus the worse for wear and as we discovered in 2003 when we sailed this way without a motor taking 4 days to do 100nm south and only did 10nm south on 2 of those days.

May 14 we motor sailed for the first 6 hours until the winds came around to the NE and we could finally turn off the motor. North sector winds continued all night and next day so had a really great fast rolly romping time with current, sometimes up to 2 knots, helping us arrive off Vitoria just on dusk. It was still blowing hard so we had to slow down at harbour entrance to allow huge freighter, with all its little attending tugs, to enter. Heading towards the yacht club, 2 tugs crossed our path, one turning around 180° just off our bow, presumably recalled to work and we also had to keep a look out for the Pilot boat which uses the yacht club for a Pilot transfer station – this is a very busy port.

Have been here nearly 3 weeks, mostly taking it easy in order to get over this persistent flu. The yacht club here has been nice to stay at, available WIFI, hot showers friendly staff made the stay pleasant but the cost has added up from staying too long, still a really pretty place even tho it has high rise apartment buildings wall to wall. Very pleasant water front walking paths next to white beaches and palm trees right down to the water. Have met some very nice locals who have helped some of the cruising boats with official clearance as one department is very difficult to deal with. It was truly amazing to watch a huge car carrier being guided up the quite narrow river, then turned completely around and maneuvered into its dock.

Vitoria is quite up market from previous places visited but one thing we have found is that anything related to entertainment gets expensive very quickly and an enjoyable lunch out with local friends and other yachties ended up costing $US25/plate for a local traditional dish and a couple of beers. The beers are cheap and food shopping is quite reasonable and the basic wage here is $US250/month so am not sure why things are priced the way they are.

Well we are cleared out of Vitoria for Rio Grande de Sul, last port south in Brazil and we leave Monday to Rio de Janeiro to renew our visa, could do it here but that same difficult department gets in the way so we must get to Rio where hopefully the officials will be ok to deal with.